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En forlænget weekend i Lourdes

juli 16, 2017

En times tid efter jeg havde udgivet indlægget om sidste uge, satte vi os i bilen og kørte mod Lourdes. Efter en lur i bilen og en is- og ammepause, brugte vores yngste pige på 3 måneder, den sidste times tid i bilen til at udforske sin stemme. Hun fandt hurtigt frem til et højt og skingert skrig, der var meget sødt de første par gange, fordi hun så både stolt og glad ud, men da vi nåede frem til vores campingplads, var hun den eneste, der stadig syntes det var sjovt (og det synes hun stadig).

Campingmutter ledte os hen til vores fine, grønne mobil home, der lå dejlig fredeligt i udkanten af en mellemstor campingplads. Efter at have udforsket mobil home’et gik vi en tur rundt på campingpladsen og vores 2-årige afprøvede og godkendte legepladsen, der til hendes store glæde rummede ikke mindre en tre trampoliner. Swimmingpoolen måtte hun dog vente med. Resten af aftenen brugte vi på aftensmad og hygge på terrassen.

Fredag morgen var smerterne fra den 2-åriges nye kindtand endelig helt væk og det blev fejret med en stor portion havregrød. Det var så skønt, at få vores dejlige, glade, snakkende og altædende pige igen.

Efter morgenmaden kørte vi ned mod centrum af byen. Lourdes er, på trods af sine kun 15.000 indbyggere, Frankrigs næststørste turistmål med over 6 millioner besøgende hvert år kun overgået af Paris. Det skyldes pigen Bernadette Soubirous, der som 14-årig i 1858 så ingen ringere end jomfru Maria i en grotte nær byen. Jomfru Maria bad Bernadette om at grave i jorden nær grotten og frem kom en magisk, helbredene kilde. Allerede året efter begyndte de første pilgrimme at valfarte til stedet og den hellige kilde og kort efter blev der opført en stor kirke umiddelbart over grotten og kilden. I dag har den katolske kirke godkendt ikke mindre en 67 mirakuløse helbredelser ved hjælp af vandet fra kilden.

Centrum af byen bar i den grad præg af de mange turister med helt ufattelig mange hoteller og lange rækker souvenirbutikker side om side med uendelig mange statuer af jomfru Maria. Selvom vi var fremme ved kirken allerede lidt i 9, strømmede folk allerede til pladsen. I støvregn ude foran grotten var en gudstjeneste i gang med rigtig, rigtig mange tilskuere. Bag grotten var der en lang række aftapningssteder, hvor man kunne tappe vand fra den hellige kilde. Længere nede sad folk i to lange køer (opdelt efter køn) og ventede på, at få lov til at bade i det hellige vand. Vandet smagte ganske fint, men om det virker, ved jeg ikke, for vi stod (heldigvis) ikke og havde brug for et mirakel.

Da vi havde været hele området rundt og så småt var på vej tilbage til vores bil, mødte vi en lang karavane af gamle og handicappede, der blev skubbet mod grotten i små kareter og kørestole af unge mennesker klædt i hvide kitler. Hvis SÅ mange syge mennesker besøger stedet hver eneste dag året rundt, så tænker jeg, at det rent statistisk nok passer meget godt med 67 mirakuløse helbredelser på 150 år. Men selvom jeg ikke rigtig tror på det, var det en stor oplevelse og man kunne ikke undgå, at blive ramt den højtidelige og ærbødige stemning, der var på stedet.

Hjemme i mobil home’et spiste vi frokost og mens pigerne sov middagslur cyklede min mand op ad bjerget Hautacam (der forøvrigt er en stigning uden for kategori, som er blevet kørt flere gang i Tour de France). Vi nåede derfor også lige en tur ned på trampolinerne, inden min mand kom hjem igen. Trods skyer (men dog omkring 25 grader) hoppede min mand og vores 2-årige i poolen og hun fik lov til at bade, til læberne blev helt blå (heldigvis var der en dejlig varm bruser i vores grønne mobil home). Til aftensmad fejrede vi endnu en gang, at hun var fri for smerter i tænderne og vi serverede hendes livret: Kartofler og sovs (samt lidt kød og salat til de voksne).

Lørdag var vejret næsten skyfrit og det udnyttede vi til en formiddagstur til toppen af Hautacam (denne gang i bil). På toppen fik vi en crépes, mens vi nød udsigten og stilheden (kun afbrudt af koklokker).

Efter frokost og middagslur hjemme i mobil home’et kørte vi til bjerget Pic du Jer, hvor vi kørte til toppen med en kabelbane. Bjerget ligger helt i udkanten af Pyrenæerne og til den ene side kunne man derfor se bjerge, mens man til den anden side kunne se fladt land, så langt øjet rakte.

Hjemme igen nåede vi endnu en tur i poolen, men da det var sol og næsten 30 grader, var det aftensmaden og ikke de blå læber, der denne gang satte en stopper for svømmerturen.

Søndag morgen pakkede vi bilen, tjekkede ud og satte kursen mod Lac de Lourdes. Mens den mindste tog en formiddagslur soppede vi, legede på legepladsen og nød stilheden. Vi havde det helt for os selv.

Efter knap en time satte vi os i bilen igen og kørte mod Grottes de Betharram, en kæmpe underjordisk grotte, der strækker sig over 3 km og er hele 80 meter dyb. Rundvisningen i grotten tog en time og 20 minutter og vi både sejlede på en underjordisk flod og kørte med et lille tog, der mindede om den gamle rutschebane i tivoli, dog uden bakkerne (I må selv tænke jer til billederne, dels var det mørkt og ikke særlig fotovenligt og dels havde jeg en sovende pige i armene det meste af turen). Pigerne opførte sig eksemplarisk. Den mindste tog en lur i mørket, mens den 2-årige gerne ville have en tur mere i både båden og toget og tålmodigt kiggede på massere af stalakmitter og stalaktitter, mens hun glædede sig til de pommes frites, vi havde lovet hende efter turen.

Da vi kom op til overfladen igen, spiste vi en hurtigt frokost (inkl. pommes frites) inden vi satte kursen hjemad mod Bordeaux. Her til aften har vi pakket ud, mens den ældste pige havde travlt med at nå og lege med alt sig legetøj, inden det blev sengetid. I morgen vender hverdagen tilbage med hvad der dertil hører af legeplads, badebassin, 35 grader og solskin.

505 thoughts on “En forlænget weekend i Lourdes”

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